Day 11: Bygdsiljum - Umeå - Hörnefors | 140km
Day 11 of this trip turned out to be one of the most enjoyable so far. The weather was pleasant, the road smooth, and I was excited to get back to cycling along the coast after my slight detour.
Like most days so far, I started much later than I had planned. But once I was on my way, my legs felt fresh and my body strong. It finally seemed to catch on to what we were doing and what I expected it to perform each day.
Umeå is one of those towns I’d heard a lot about. A vibrant university town in northern Sweden, it’s bisected by the Ume River, one of the region’s main waterways, that flows through the city and into the Gulf of Bothnia. I know people who’ve studied at the university here, and as soon as I rolled into town, I understood why they loved it. The streets buzzed with energy, packed with students and older locals alike, all soaking in the early summer sun at outdoor cafés. Up here, north of Umeå, the summers are flooded with sunlight, while the winters are dark and long. It felt like the whole town was shaking off the last traces of winter, eager to embrace the warmth.
I haven’t had much coffee on this trip, but the outdoor seating at one café looked too inviting to pass up. I parked my bike and went in to order, still panting a bit from the final push into the city. It took me three "sorry, can you repeat that?" before I could understand the barista’s simple question in my native language. I guess I was too distracted by the menu, but I knew one thing for sure: I needed a big cup of coffee. So I started with that.
Sitting outside, sipping my coffee, and listening to the chatter of people passing by made me feel like a traveler out seeing the world. These quiet moments, tucked into an otherwise tough physical journey, are so precious, and I don’t take them for granted.
With more than a little reluctance, I eventually had to keep moving. Before I did, I biked a lap around the city center to at least get a better look. Sad I didn’t have time to stick around and explore, I pedaled on. Similar to the roads leading in and out of Skellefteå, the neighborhoods around Umeå were filled with large, impeccably well-kept houses. I couldn’t imagine moving further north than southern Sweden, but I could definitely understand why the people living up here love it so much.
It turned out to be a long day on the bike, but every kilometer was a joy. The smooth asphalt followed the coast, and I loved watching the slowly shifting landscape, which wasn’t all forest. Having grown more confident in my ability to sleep outside and find good spots to pitch my tent, I didn’t worry about planning ahead.
As the day wore on, I passed a bridge over a rushing river and spotted a flat riverbank a bit further ahead. After crossing, I veered off the road and led my bike down a trail to the spot. A sign in the forest reminded me of Sweden’s "right to roam" policy, which was a good indicator that I was welcome to camp anywhere, as long as I was respectful.
I found a nice patch of grass close to the water on my left and a big field on my right. Scanning my surroundings, my eyes locked onto something just a hundred meters away in the field. I’d never seen one in person before, but its majestic antlers and large frame couldn’t be mistaken for anything else. It was a red deer. We stood there, staring at each other for a few moments. I admired its beauty (probably not a sentiment the deer shared). Judging by its size, it must have weighed over 200 kg. I wanted this wild encounter to last as long as possible, so I stood still, barely breathing, willing it to stay. I wish I’d gotten a picture, but it didn’t take long before it trotted off, almost animated in its graceful jog.
It was a day outdoors well spent.