Day 16: Sundsvall to Arbrå | 147km

There isn’t much to say about the riding itself. I left Sundsvall rested and well-fed, eager to hit the road again. My body ached a little, but I felt energized. I didn’t reach for my camera until late in the evening, when the sun began to dip below the rolling hills of golden and green farmland.

It was a long day (147km of pedaling) before I finally rolled into my campsite. I’d scoped it out on Camp4Night (always a gamble), but this time it paid off. I turned onto a gravel road that snaked down the hill toward the lake, and there it was: the perfect spot.

Despite Scandinavia’s right to roam, which allows you to camp almost anywhere as long as you’re respectful, I’d struggled to find truly great spots. Maybe I’m picky, but I never feel comfortable setting up where I’m easily visible unless it’s an official campground. This spot, though, was different: perfectly tucked away, yet close to what looked like a quiet neighborhood. A wooden shelter stood nearby, offering my bike a night’s refuge from the elements.

When I set off on this trip, I’d imagined cozy evenings in the tent, gazing out at open landscapes and feeling at one with nature. That hadn’t really happened until now. In fact, I’d felt far more at peace on the nights I’d booked a hotel. It’s easy to romanticize camping, but for me, it’s mostly a means to an end, a way to keep this trip flexible and spontaneous.

But sometimes, nature hands you a front-row seat to admire its beauty. I’m writing this from the tent, the water gently lapping against the stones along the lake’s edge, a group of geese chattering in the distance. It’s also the first night I’ve slept without my full set of baselayers, and the mild air is a welcome change.