Day 26: Fockbek to Hipstedt (sort of) | 130km
24 June
Today marked the first of what I expect will be many scorching days ahead. We spent the night at a cozy hotel in Fockbek, which treated us to a hearty breakfast spread. We knew a long day lay ahead, as camping spots are sparse along our chosen route.
For nearly the first 20 kilometers, we pedaled alongside a canal that slices across Germany, stretching from Kiel to the Elbe River. At one point, we hopped onto a two minute ferry to cross to the other side, continuing our morning ride toward the Elbe, where a much larger crossing awaited. The heat was relentless, and I found myself drinking more water than on any other day so far. It made me realize I probably need to rearrange my bike setup to fit extra bottles. The rising temperatures turned the ride into a sweaty, demanding effort, and staying hydrated became a real challenge.
The 80 kilometers to the Elbe crossing passed surprisingly quickly though, and I felt strong. Still, the heat seemed to suppress my appetite, and my usual habit of constant snacking had faded. Even as hunger crept in, I enjoyed the ride along smaller rivers, likely tributaries of the Elbe, and admired the farmland, where cornfields stretched endlessly in every direction.
As we crossed the Elbe, my stomach was in knots, so we stopped at the first restaurant on the other side. We settled for a mediocre plate of fish and chips, followed by ice cream, and chugged liters (yes, liters) of water.
The landscape on the far side of the Elbe lost some of its charm. We mostly followed bike paths alongside busy roads, with cornfields dominating the countryside once again. It made me wonder if this was what hiking through America’s Midwest might feel like, or at least how I’d imagined it. Crossing the US on the TransAmerica Bike Trail was one of my early bikepacking dreams, but I’d chosen Europe instead. We rode in silence, and I caught myself wondering what that American adventure might have been like. So far, apart from the first week, I’ve been happy with my choice.
Before this trip, I assumed I’d have deep, philosophical thinking sessions on the bike. But reflections feel fleeting, and it’s hard to focus on a single thought for long before the road demands my attention again. One of the day’s passing thoughts was about the housing markets in Denmark and Germany. Yes, that’s what occupied my mind today. In Denmark, “For Sale” signs seemed to be on every corner, an eye raising number of them. In Germany, I’ve barely spotted one in two days of riding. Maybe Denmark is in the middle of a housing crisis, or perhaps it just has a more dynamic market while Germans prefer to stay put. I’m sure there are plenty of other explanations, but sleep is setting in, and I don’t have the energy to think about it anymore tonight.
After 130 kilometers of pedaling, we finally reached a campsite near Hipstedt, where we pitched our tent beside a small pond. The place had a slightly eerie vibe, with few people around but semi permanent caravans scattered everywhere. I was relieved to see three other campers staying just for the night. I’d been looking forward to washing off the sand and dirt caked on my legs and face from the dry gravel roads. But the bathrooms at this campsite required special coins to start the showers, and the machine demanded more coins every three minutes. With no staff in sight, I was left with no choice but to shower in the sink, where only cold water was available. Normally, I wouldn’t have chosen a cold rinse, but today, it was probably for the best, helping me cool down and maybe even aiding my muscle recovery.
According to Garmin and a quick cross check with my favorite AI chatbot, I burned around 5,000 calories today. But as I mentioned, it’s been tough to eat enough real food. Flavored rice and chips made for a fairly sad excuse for dinner.
I’m writing this just before sleep, and I’m wondering if the loud ducks outside will keep me up. I’ve never heard ducks make so much noise, so we’ll see how well I rest tonight.