Day 36: Paris | 0km
4 July 2026
An unplanned and unexpected rest day felt like exactly what I needed. Going two weeks without giving your body more than a few hours each night to recover takes a real toll. Don’t get me wrong, it’s mostly a good toll. We chose to go on this journey, after all. Regardless, rest is still necessary. Sleeping in, not having to pack my bags, wearing clean clothes, and stopping to properly explore what was around us felt like the perfect remedy for a bit of adventure fatigue.
We naturally woke up fairly early, but I felt well rested after sleeping in a soft bed and knowing I wouldn’t need to pedal a single kilometre that day. To beat the crowds, we headed straight to the nearest laundromat to give my wardrobe a much-needed refresh. Once the washing machine was running, we walked back to the hotel for breakfast while it did its thing. Eating breakfast in an air-conditioned room without a rush in the world felt like a real luxury, and I made sure to savour it.
As soon as the washing cycle finished, we returned to dry the clothes. Industrial dryers are surprisingly quick, which gave us a few minutes to wander around the nearby market while we waited. The streets were still fairly quiet, but people slowly drifted between stalls selling colourful fruit from all over the world, cheeses from southern Europe, fresh vegetables, and warm loaves of French bread. I was struck by how fresh everything looked. Just thinking about it now makes my mouth water.
Like so many couples strolling through markets like this, Irene and I promised each other we’d start visiting them more often once we got home. I hope the convenience of large supermarket chains doesn’t make us forget that promise. There’s something much nicer about buying from individual shop owners and looking the person you’re buying from in the eye.
After freshening up at the hotel, we headed back into the city to find a bike box so Irene could fly her bike home and a a new pair of tyres for my bike, since the current ones were completely worn down. Finding a cardboard box big enough for a bike wasn’t easy. We visited four different bike shops before finally finding one at a second-hand bike store. We were lucky to find one at all. Surprisingly, it was almost as difficult to find a new set of gravel tyres, but after a bit more searching, we managed to complete that mission too.
As the afternoon heat picked up, we escaped into a cosy café called Kozy for brunch. Judging by the long queue outside, we expected the coffee to be good, and we weren’t disappointed. After a delicious brunch, we continued wandering through Paris, picking up a new skirt and top for Irene and a linen shirt for myself. Since it would be our last evening together for a while, we wanted to go out for dinner looking a little less like bike travellers and blend in with the Parisian atmosphere.
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at another café for a snack, where I discovered one of the tastiest pastries I’ve had in a long time. At first, I couldn’t quite tell what it was, but the name gave it away: a “Crookie.” Half croissant, half chocolate chip cookie. With how much I’m eating these days, it might just be the perfect pastry. The baker had somehow managed to keep the crispiness of a croissant while filling the centre with a gooey chocolate chip cookie. How? I have no idea. I just hope I find one again someday. If not, I’ll either have to learn how to bake it myself or come back to Paris and hope the same baker is still working there.
Before getting ready for dinner, we packed Irene’s bike into its box while I changed the tyres on mine, leaving my hands covered in black grease from the chain. No matter how hard I try to clean them, they always seem destined to be dirty again a few hours later. Bike maintenance is an important part of travelling for this long, and knowing how to fix basic mechanical problems can save a lot of headaches. I haven’t changed many tyres during the trip, mostly just inner tubes, but thankfully the new ones fitted perfectly. They were slightly narrower than my old ones, and the bike even felt a little faster afterwards.
Later that evening, dressed in clean clothes, we walked past the Panthéon towards Rue Descartes, which had been recommended by our helpful hotel receptionist, Kevin. It felt like a refreshing reminder of life away from the bike.
There’s a strange paradox to travelling. It’s often described as the time when you’re meant to be the most present and reflective, but in reality, so much of your attention goes towards logistics and the basics. Food, water, weather, accommodation, and tomorrow’s route take up a surprising amount of mental space. You’re definitely present, but I haven’t always found the time or energy for deeper reflection. Ironically, in everyday life, despite work and all the usual responsibilities, I often have more mental space to daydream.
Walking up Rue Descartes, a street full of restaurants, music, conversation, and life, I found myself in one of those rare moments where I could simply take it all in. I appreciated the people walking, talking, and, as silly as it may sound, simply being human. One thing I noticed was that I didn’t see a single phone on the outdoor restaurant tables. People were talking, laughing, and enjoying each other’s company. Some quietly sipped a glass of wine, a beer, or something stronger. Three jazz musicians played in the small square, providing pleasant background music for anyone passing by and a wonderful performance for those who stopped to listen.
Irene and I sat on the edge of the fountain for a while, saying very little as we watched everything happening around us. Once again, I felt incredibly connected to the place and the people around me. At the same time, I felt a little melancholic knowing it’s impossible to truly capture moments like these. No photo or journal entry can ever recreate exactly how they felt. Perhaps that’s what makes them so special.
As we walked back to the hotel, I felt Paris had given me exactly what I needed. I felt rested, recharged, and ready to continue through France. Tomorrow, though, I’ll be doing it alone.