Day 48: Po to Gijón | 98km
19 July 2026
Throughout this trip, I’ve realized the importance of setting small milestones to break up the journey. Today, that milestone was reaching Gijón to watch Spain play the World Cup final against Argentina. My mom and brothers were in Spain when they won the Euros in 2008, while I was home in Sweden, so this felt like a chance to finally share in the kind of memory they so often talk about, the crazy celebrations on the streets.
I’ve probably said this for every day along the Camino del Norte, but despite the physical effort of tackling the mountains in the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and eventually Galicia, I’ve enjoyed every day immensely. The beautiful nature, the towns, and the energy from seeing other pilgrims on the trail make it all worthwhile. My body was sore when I woke up, and my ass was hurting more than it had in a while due to chafing. I had to readjust my sitting position often to manage the sting, even if it meant making sharp maneuvers to avoid every little bump on the road. Pain in your ass, literally when biking, might sound like a joke, but it can become a serious issue, so it was a slight cause for concern. A few remedies I’ve found helpful are getting out of my bib shorts quickly after a ride, drying properly after showers, and using Vaseline to prevent chafing. This is just body management for cyclists.
One of the more famous towns I passed in the morning was Ribadesella, where I rode along the long boardwalk of Santa Marina Beach. The houses along the coast were striking, large, impeccably maintained, and beautifully designed. It seemed like a town for retired careerists to reap the rewards of a long career and enjoy a slower pace of life.
I continued on the narrow roads snaking along the coast and through the mountains, climbing and descending valleys. The hills were steep and numerous, but I feel like I’ve built the endurance to handle them much better now. And the downhills? They’re just glorious. There’s no better reward after a long climb than flying down a mountain, feeling the cool breeze against your face and your shirt flapping in the wind. Going downhill is probably when I most reach a flow state. Since I’m often cycling at around 50 km/h on these sections, my mind becomes extremely focused on the road ahead, any imperfections in the asphalt, the sound of cars or vehicles behind me or around corners. All my senses are heightened because if I mess up, the consequences would be catastrophic. These descents make me feel very alive, and they give me a lot of energy for the next uphill. Am I starting to like hills?
Around 5 pm, I rolled into Gijón and the simple hotel I had booked for the night. Since I wanted to enjoy the World Cup final in the city, I thought a hotel would be the best place to store all my gear without worrying, and it was incredibly cheap for what I got. After cleaning up, I first headed out to a laundromat and grabbed some desperately needed food. Nothing fancy, just calories in my face. Once all my chores were done, I could finally stroll into the city center to explore for an hour before the game started. If Spain won, I’d definitely eclipse the bragging rights of the rest of my family, who witnessed the Euro win in ’08.
The streets were filled with people in groups walking toward the bars. Kids were running around kicking footballs with the names of their favorite players printed on the back of their shirts. At the same time, it wasn’t that loud but rather a nervous anticipation for the final. It didn’t feel like everyone was overly confident of a win, but seconds after the final whistle blew, I heard cheers erupt, cars honk, and fireworks go off across the city. Most of the bars downtown were packed with fans wearing the national team shirt in support. It was so packed everywhere that it was difficult to find a spot with seats, and I definitely needed to sit to preserve the little energy I had left. A few minutes after the whistle blew to start the game, I found a smaller, less crowded bar, which became my setting for the match. Several beers and a tense game later, I could celebrate the win together with the locals.