Day 57: Praia de Mira to Nazaré | 122km

28 July 2026

Another day, another early start. I’ve done this routine so many times now I could do it in my sleep. My technique for folding and packing all the sleeping equipment is refined to almost an art, but sleeping in campsites has gotten very old. It’s nice to have access to all the facilities, but something is definitely lost compared to wild camping in the north. I don’t miss the cold, but I miss the space and feeling of freedom it provided whenever I found a good spot to pitch.

I’d probably try more wild camping around here too, but the areas I’m going through have been graded as being at extreme risk for wildfires, so not camping out is more of a safety measure. If a fire broke out, no one would know I was there and I could potentially need rescuing. Spain and France have both been dealing with severe wildfires, and knowing I cycled past an area that is now ablaze makes me even more cautious for the road ahead. I don’t want to count on luck or simply good timing to make it through.

The closer I get to the end, the more delicate I feel the trip becomes. I want to be careful not to jeopardize completing this “mission” right on the finish line. Not that it’s the exact same thing, but I’ve heard stories of alpinists and mountaineers who made it through the hardest part but made a critical mistake as soon as they thought they were safe. I don’t want to do that, so I’m mindful of staying focused on the road, not biking through high-traffic areas, or speeding too fast down steep hills. Accidents are never welcome, but it would hurt even more when I’m just a little over a week from wrapping this thing up.

I followed a beautiful bike path between the massive dunes and the coast for 50-60km. The long, straight stretches of road made me feel very small, and progress seemed slow since the landscape was so similar, but it was the perfect place to turn off my brain for a few hours and just pedal. It’s funny, but I hardly think about the distance as I used to. I just think about time. I’ve turned off the widget on my navigation device that shows me distance covered or distance to go and instead just have my speedometer because it’s fun to see how quickly I’m riding downhill, and sometimes a clock.

In everyday life, I rarely wish for blue skies and sun, but today I was very happy to mostly be riding under clouds shielding me from the worst heat. Anything I can do to minimize my hours in the sun. The Mars-looking landscape along the dunes gave way to bigger hills, cliffs and small villages dotted along the shores. Riding close to the ocean always makes me feel more at ease and calmer, so although the dunes were pretty, I much prefer a clear view of the Atlantic.

Nazaré is a resort town most notable, at least to me, for having some of the biggest surfable waves in the world (up to 26 meters). I had hoped to see some of these big waves in action, but upon arriving at the viewing spot I learned that the biggest waves come during the winter season. At least the view was beautiful, and it gave me a good bird’s-eye view of the town, which is nestled between two mountains and a very long beach.

I grabbed a late lunch in town while hiding from the sun and later planning routes for the coming days. In the late afternoon, I continued the final two kilometres to the campground, only stopping to pick up half a watermelon and some light food for dinner.

At the very tilted campground, where I searched for a long time for a flat patch to pitch my tent, I met a fellow cyclist. His name was Jürgen, and as the name suggests, he was German. We chatted for a while, and I learned he retired in late 2024 and, a few months later, set off on a bike trip to Thailand that took about a year. He said he travelled slowly, and the only reason he didn’t return by bike was because his sister got sick, so he wanted to be closer to Europe while she was undergoing chemotherapy. She would have her final session next week, and as soon as she’s cleared of cancer, Jürgen would fly to South America to continue roaming around on the bike.

He was impressed by the speed at which I’ve travelled from the North Cape to here, upon which I reflected that although I’m happy this adventure is almost over, I wish I would’ve had more time to cover the same distance. I’ve not only travelled fast because I’ve enjoyed the physical challenge, but the deadline for me going back to work is quickly approaching, and I’m just tired. I’ve learned a lot about myself on this trip, and one of those things is how much more meaningful travelling feels when it’s shared.